SE5 Body A-Post

Reliant Scimitar SE5 - A-Post Inserts

Mobirise

This is a common ailment of these cars. As you are probably aware, the purpose of this steel insert is to take the load of the weight of the doors (approx 18kg) coming through the door hinges and spread it across a large area of the A-post and the adjoining kick panel.
Note that these inserts do not tie into any other structure or the chassis. They are standalone load spreaders.

An indication that they have rusted an require replacement is the billowing of the kick panel in that area between the mounting bolts. This being caused by the swelling of the rusted panel pushing the fibreglass out.

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The Repair

Although the repair is intrusive, once you get into it it is not that complicated.
First of all you of course you need to remove the door and the door hinges.
Once done, proceed as follows.

Gain Access
The hole in the kick panel is nowhere near big enough to effect the repair.
Access is gained via the front wheel well by cutting a hole as shown. The best tool for this is a DIY multi-tool as it gives a clean sharp cut with reduced spread of dust (don't forget your mask!). Be sure to leave enough of an edge around the hole to give something to bond to when replacing the removed section.

Front left wheel well looking back.

Outline of access hole cut with a DIY multi-tool.

Portion removed.

Metal insert now clearly accessible.

Removing The Old Insert
Due to the fact that it has rusted, removal of the old metal work isn't as hard as you might imagine. The bond between it and the fibreglass will be very weak due to the surface rust of the metal. A few choice cuts through the outer layer with the multi-tool will allow you to effectively peel the fibreglass away from it.

It will be possible to make out the outline of the old steel insert. Some cars inserts are better buried than others.

Large holes in steelwork aid with bonding the insert to the GRP body.

Fibreglass skin is cut around the extremities of the insert and then simply peeled clear.

Once the outer covering of fibreglass has been peeled away it is possible to prise the insert out of position. The bond won't be that strong anymore thanks to the surface rust.

Removed!
Note the bends in the top (far) end of the insert were caused during removal as the metal had become so thin.

The 'surface rust' still stuck in place within the shell. Needless to say, this all needs cleaning off and rubbing down to prepare it to accept the new steelwork.

New Steel Insert
I will put my hand up here and admit to buying a ready made part. Someone on the owners forum had made up a batch of replacement inserts out of galvanised sheet steel so I bought a pair.
However, it is not a particularly complex shape and using the old one as a pattern (with the aid of a bit of Carboard Aided Design) you should be able to fabricate your own replacements. In fact you would be able to adjust them so you get the best possible fit for your car.

RH Side insert removed with the tool that removed it, a DIY Multi-tool.
Note the welded in triangulation braces, you will need to include these.

Replacement inserts. Square hinge cut-outs clearly visible.
Masking tape is because I am adding additional bolt holes on the kick-panel side.

Drilling the additional bolt holes in two rows between the large holes. Despite being galvanized, the whole thing was painted after this to seal the exposed cut edges.

Do NOT pre-drill the hinge holes as I have done. Do this after it has been fitted using the existing holes in the bodywork as a guide.

Installation
After trial fitting to make sure you are happy with the way it fits, and having cleaned all surfaces to ensure a good bond, the new metalwork is bonded in place with resin. Use the large square hinge cutouts for alignment.

New metalwork has had its mating faces painted with resin and is held in position as the resin sets.

Spring clamps and screws through from inside through bolt holes into wooden blocks to ensure good bond with the kick panel.

G-Clamps and wooden load spreaders to pull the metal work tight into the corner.

Once the resin has had time to cure (I gave it a few days in the warm summer months) the various screws and clamps are removed and the internal faces covered over in a layer of fibreglass, effectively stitching it to the bodyshell.

More to follow...

Mobirise

The contents of this website are purely a reflection of my own experiences and knowledge gained whilst working on my various projects. Anything you do based on what you have read here is done so entirely at your own risk.
Personally I wouldn't trust someone like me with a lawn mower! You have been warned! Flapper-bat!

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